XJ Side-Mount Install Guide (Before 2016-05)

First of all, if you have any questions, CALL US! We will help you!


Be sure to run highest octane available at your pumps! This is critical for a forced-induction vehicle. If most of your tank is full of a lower octane fuel, postpone your install until you can fill up with the right stuff.

Tools Needed

  1. Normal hand tools: Flat head screwdriver, 10, 12, 13, and 15mm sockets to remove the throttle body and power steering bolts.
  2. Tool to remove the connector on fuel line
  3. 15mm wrench and socket to remove the belt on 1997 to 1999 Jeeps with the sliding tensioner. On 2000+, a 3/8″ square male ratchet to unload the dynamic tensioner.
  4. All the Boosted Technologies parts use stainless allen head socket capscrews. You will need 4 and 5mm sockets. ‘T’-handles are nice.
  5. Rags to clean gasket surfaces, masking take to help make sure you don’t drop anything in the intake manifold.
  6. Safety glasses to keep fuel out of your eyes when you disconnect the fuel line. It is under 50 PSI!

Supercharger to Manifold Install

  1. Disconnect the positive battery terminal, then cover the terminal.
  2. Remove air inlet pipe and airbox.
  3. Remove your power steering pump and hoses.
  4. Remove your fuel rail and injectors.
  5. Put the wiring look and connectors above the plastic rail connected to the cylinder head studs. This will give you more room to access the manifold bolts.
  6. Remove your intake manifold. Clean the gasket off. Replacing it is optional.
  7. Install the new manifold. Be sure to line up the two dowels before you tighten the bolts. Optional: use a light coat of RTV when installing the new manifold.
  8. Replace the injectors. If the seals are soft, they can be reused.
  9. Remove the schrader valve inner. This is where you will connect the seventh injector.
  10. Reinstall the fuel rail.
  11. On the front of your manifold, there is a 1/2″ thick adapter plate. This allows you to move your power steering pump. The two 8mm socket head capscrews are the only bolts needed. The countersunk screws are only used for aligning the manifold to the tub for welding, you may discard them.
  12. Remove the tank from your power steering pump. The two clips slide off after you lift the retainer.
  13. Install the aluminum hose inlet (tool supplied). Use a little here RTV to keep it sealed.
  14. Remove your idler pulley bracket and install the provided bracket. (this piece is trimmed to clear the new position of the power steering pump)
  15. Re-install the new power steering pump.
  16. Install the new power steering pressure line.
  17. Install the new power steering tank on the passenger side cowl. Pull the wiring hardness down so the tank will clear the hood when closed.
  18. Install the supercharger unit to the mount plate. Use a very thin coat of RTV. The supercharger unit comes pre-filled with oil.
  19. Install the plate and supercharger unit. (starting with the front top bolt and then putting a bolt towards the back to hold it in place is the easiest way). It is a heavy unit, so it may require a second set of hands. Use a very thin coat of RTV between the plates.
  20. Remove the map sensor from the throttle body. Mount it on the top rear side of the manifold using the plate provided.
  21. Install your throttle body onto the supercharger using the supplied gasket.
  22. Install your air temp sensor on the back of the supercharger mount plate. The other port is for the split second vacuum line.
  23. Plug in the sensor wires (throttle position, idle air control, map). If any are not long enough, you may need to release them a little bit from the harness, or extend them (we have found that not all harnesses were built with the same length of wires)
  24. Install the power steering return line, routing it under the supercharger unit and over the brake lines.
  25. Connect your cables. On the auto transmission cars, note the adjustment on the kickdown cable. Measure it from the cable end to the point on the throttle body. Try to maintain the same relationship. This controls your shifting. Too tight, and the upshifts are late. Too loose, and shifts are slow and sloppy.
  26. Route the belt under the water pump and then to the power steering.

Air Box

  1. Cut 1.5″ off your inlet with a hacksaw. Pre-mark it, and keep your cut straight.
  2. Use a 2.5″ hole saw (home depot has them) to cut a new hole centered in the box lid rear. Install the adapter with the 4 self-tapping screws and RTV.
  3. Use the 3″ plastic plug to plug the old inlet (use RTV). Shorten the spigot on the side and cap it. The new plug has a 90 degree 3/8″ nylon fitting. This goes to the fresh air port on the front of your valve cover.
  4. Run the 2.5″ piping in a u-shape from your throttle body over your brake booster to your air box.

Pressure and Vacuum Hose Routing

Before you get started on this part of your install, there are several basics that do not change:

  1. The PCV valve on the rear of your valve cover is .090 in diameter inside. The plastic line coming out of the rubber hose adapter is 5/16″. Trim off all but 1″ of the plastic line, and connect it to the 5/16″ spigot on the throttle side of the supercharger next to the fuel injector.
  2. The bypass valve hose hooks up to the top port on the actuator (round black valve) and one of the 1/8″ ports on the top throttle side of the supercharger. That hose tees into the heater/hvac vacuum line. Do not forget to leave the one-way valve between the tee and the heater/hvac vacuum line, or your heater air distribution system will not work. This line also feeds the cruise control system (if applicable).
  3. The 3/8″ port on the driver’s of the throttle side of the supercharger always goes to the brake booster.
  4. The 5/16″ port on the top of the throttle side of the supercharger feeds the EVAP system.
  5. The second 1/8″ port on top of the throttle side of the supercharger feeds the vacuum side of the split second tuner.
  6. The pressure side of the split second tuner must see boost pressure (post-supercharger).
    1. 1997-1999 models
      1. This can be attached to one of the ports on top of the intake manifold.
      2. The four 1/4″ pipe tapped holes should be used as follows:
        1. One for the pressure side of the split second unit.
        2. One for the air temp sensor.
        3. The remaining two should be capped (supplied).
      3. The 3/8″ port for the brake booster should be capped (supplied).
    2. 2000-2001 models
      1. This can be attached to one of the ports on the side of the intake manifold.
      2. The extra 1/8″ and 5/16″ ports on the side of the manifold should be capped (supplied).
      3. The 1/4″ pipe tapped hole where the air temp sensor was originally installed should be capped (supplied).
      4. The 3/8″ port for the brake booster should be capped (supplied).

Fuel System Install

WARNING: Any time you open the fuel system, you run risk of causing a fuel leak, which can cause a fire. We take no responsibility. Although it is not difficult, if you doubt your ability, have a professional do this for you.

  1. Fuel Injector:
    1. Attach fuel injector to supercharger
  2. Fuel Feed:
    1. Screw the fuel line onto the schrader valve fitting.
    2. Plug the fuel line from the fuel-tee into the injector.

Check-list and Startup

  1. By now you should have your belt installed and tensioned.
  2. Your air filter should be connected to the throttle body.
  3. Your throttle, cruise control, and transmission kickdown (if equipped) cables should be connected.
  4. Your fuel lines, evap lines, brake booster hose, HVAC/cruise, vacuum lines, and Split Second vacuum/pressure lines should all be connected.
  5. Any unused ports on the intake manifold should be capped.
  6. Turn the key on for 2 seconds, then off. Repeat 3 times to cycle the fuel pump. Check fuel lines for any leaks. If any leaks are found, stop here and repair leaks.
  7. Start up the engine. (The supercharger has straight-cut gears. They make some noise. It is normal.)
  8. As with any vehicle, it is a good idea to allow the engine to reach operating temperature before using any significant throttle inputs (this applies more-so with forced-induction)
  9. Take the vehicle for a test-drive. If you get any bucking, check-engine light, or rattle sounds coming from the engine when you are accelerating, immediately check all of your vacuum and fuel connections. If you are unable to find what is wrong, contact us immediately (720-644-6432) so that we may walk you through diagnosing the issue.


Alternate pulleys (if purchased)

  1. Install and test-drive with standard pulley first.
  2. If all is well running with the standard pulley, install the next smaller pulley, and test-drive again. Repeat if you have multiple alternate pulleys.

Tips to ensure best performance:

1991-1999 models

  1. If the existing is old, replace your cap, rotor, and spark plug wires.
  2. Use spark plugs 1 heat range colder, and gap at .029-.031
  3. Upgrade to 4-hole injectors.

2000-2001 models

  1. Use spark plugs 1 heat range colder, and gap at .029-.031